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  1. #11
    JofoSwingin is offline Member
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    Until you start getting into the 5.9 and up type of routes, upper body strength and even grip strength is highly over-rated. You don't "pull" yourself up the route. Ideally, you use your arms to keep your CG close to the wall and to stay balanced while you use your legs to power yourself up the face. You either want your arms fully extended or locked-off (Hand at about your shoulder angle permitting, elbow pulled in hard to the body) as much as possible.

    One of the girls I climb with can barely do a few pullups and I seriously doubt she could do 10 pushups to save her life...but she smokes our entire group on the wall every week. She's been dancing since she was a kid and just knows how to put her center of gravity exactly where she wants it...and then has the leg power to stand on one leg while upgrading her hands and other foot. It really is amazing to watch.

    If I had to choose just one strength exercise that I thought would help me climb better, I'd do pistols. That and regular practice would get you up to 5.8+ routes. After that, the holds start getting ridiculously small and yes, you have to grip them harder to stay balanced and close to the wall. But for a beginner/low intermediate climber doing 5.8+s and under, you already have all the grip strength you need. Endurance is another thing.

  2. #12
    Erik Blekeberg is offline Senior Member
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    I'd rock climb to get better at rock climbing. A lot of it is strategy and learning different ways to manipulate yourself. Depending upon the route that can be pretty high "rep".

  3. #13
    Chiggers Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by JofoSwingin View Post

    One of the girls I climb with can barely do a few pullups and I seriously doubt she could do 10 pushups to save her life...but she smokes our entire group on the wall every week. She's been dancing since she was a kid and just knows how to put her center of gravity exactly where she wants it...and then has the leg power to stand on one leg while upgrading her hands and other foot. It really is amazing to watch.
    I agree with all your points. Particularly that watching good lady climbers is amazing to watch for a number of reasons.

  4. #14
    wv2de is offline Senior Member
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    Here's the link to the original vid. (couldn't get to it at work when I posted this originally).

    Strength Training for Rock Climbing: How to Rock Climb | eHow.com

    Enjoy .

  5. #15
    Vipre88 is offline Junior Member
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    I agree with jofoswinging. Climbing is about balance and flexibility which is why women start out better climbers than men. However, once a man figures it out, then they
    progress rapidly because of the extra upper body strength they have.

    Think about the frog - that should be your friend. The ability to turn your knees
    and hips outward helps get you in closer to the wall/rock.

    And your arms will burn out if you hang flex-armed like doing a pull-up. Instead,
    learn to hang from the skeletal structures by using an extended arm and the
    minimum finger strength required to hang on.
    It also helps to frequently hang one arm down and get blood supply back in it, then
    swap arms.

    Climbing is leg strength, foot placement and balance for the most part, at least
    in the earlier stages.

    Hope this helps some!

  6. #16
    Pavel Tsatsouline Guest

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    Com. wv, climbing needs very high force low rep work but endurance work as well. The latter mostly static in nature.

  7. #17
    wv2de is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pavel Tsatsouline View Post
    Com. wv, climbing needs very high force low rep work but endurance work as well. The latter mostly static in nature.
    That sounds more like something that makes sense . Thanks, Pavel!

    wv

  8. #18
    EricKenyonRKC is offline Member
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    Colfax CA
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    Default Calling Dennis Frisch RKC II

    Dennis, I would like to read your take on this.

    Great thread BTW.
    Eric Kenyon RKC
    Colfax California
    formisfunction.org
    erickenyonrkc@yahoo.com

  9. #19
    Chiggers Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by wv2de View Post
    That sounds more like something that makes sense . Thanks, Pavel!

    wv
    Pavel is spot on but you have been told this before so i am surprised it 'sounds more like something that makes sense'.

  10. #20
    wv2de is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chiggers View Post
    Pavel is spot on but you have been told this before so i am surprised it 'sounds more like something that makes sense'.
    I meant compared to the dude in that video - didn't mean to imply other's who spoke before weren't as right. I think we all have the general idea on building strength by now .

    wv
    Last edited by wv2de; 07-11-2009 at 01:12 AM.

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