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  1. #11
    smathews is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich in Nor Cal View Post
    I believe the women's bar is by regulation supposed to be 35, but of course, yours should have been 45 to go with your set. Personally, I don't like plastic bearings since I do more Olympic-style lifting, and dropping the bar from heights is too much for the plastic bearings and bolted ends. I had one break on me one time. I invested $150 in a good brass bearing, 1500 lb bar with sealed ends, and it has been great. For Olympic lifting, needle-bearing bars are best, but are a lot more expensive, and I felt that it was more than I needed. The brass bushing bars are more common for powerlifting, like the "Texas Power Bar," and tough enough for what I do.
    I've never weighed the bar, but it is guaranteed to be plus or minus .5% if I recall correctly, and reviewers confirmed it was.

    BTW, I don't know how much you know about bars, but usually the useful weight capacity is usually around 60% of the rated capacity. Cheaper bars rated at 600 lbs often bend under 400 or more pounds and become permanently warped. If you plan to lift heavy for any length of time, I would really recommend investing in a quality bar.
    Thanks for the info. I've bent a cap oly bar doing rack pulls @ 670 pounds before. I'm benching in the very low 200's, squatting in the mid 200's, and deadlifting in the mid 300's, so I think my bar will hold for a while. I've been looking for a good bar online- where did you fine a good one for $150? The best I've seen is $275 for a York from Muscledriver, about an hour away.

  2. #12
    Rich in Nor Cal is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by smathews View Post
    Thanks for the info. I've bent a cap oly bar doing rack pulls @ 670 pounds before. I'm benching in the very low 200's, squatting in the mid 200's, and deadlifting in the mid 300's, so I think my bar will hold for a while. I've been looking for a good bar online- where did you fine a good one for $150? The best I've seen is $275 for a York from Muscledriver, about an hour away.
    I got a Champion Power Bar from Amazon last year. It seemed like a solid low-end/mid-quality bar based on the reviews and description, and so far it has held up well. No complaints. I think it has a 10-year guarantee also, which means they will stand behind it. A lot of bars, like the X-Marks, have something like a 6 month warranty (last time I looked at them) and seem too cheaply made to me. Yorks are great bars, so you can't go wrong with one of those, it will probably last you a lifetime. Eleiko makes probably the best Olympic bars, but if you mostly do power lifting, then a power bar is what you want. York makes both with various ratings and prices. Cap is also a good company and makes a lot of good bars. I mostly recommend getting one with brass bushing and not the plastic bushing that the cheap ones come with, and with sealed end bearing, as the ones with bolts are a hassle to keep adjusted, and prone to breakage if the bar is dropped with weight on it.

    edit: If your current bar is working fine, go ahead and keep using it and if it breaks or gets too warped, then think about getting a better one. As long as it works. Also, I might be wrong, but I think the Champion bar might be 30 or 32mm dia. thick, which I liked, but I think standard is 28mm, so some might not like that it's a little bigger. Some other bars are, some aren't. Generally your better quality bars like Yorks will be standard. [Oops, re-read your post and saw you wrote that you would get it from Muscledriver, not York, so I'm deleting this part.]
    Last edited by Rich in Nor Cal; 10-02-2012 at 05:08 AM.

  3. #13
    gtrgy888 is offline Senior Member
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    Same thing with my trusty 24 kg nonDD k-bell. It weighs exactly 54 pounds, which is a couple more than the 52.8 pounds advertised. I'd probably be pissed if it weighed LESS than advertised.
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  4. #14
    bwwm is offline Senior Member
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    I have a "35#"kb that is actually 33 and change with the rubber bottom off. To be fair, with the rubber bottom and bolt on it probably just makes it over the 34# mark.

    I just got back from weighing some 45# plates at the post office. This particular pair is made by CAP if I recall correctly. One is a bit over 46# (no biggie), the other is 48# 8oz. So if you threw those on a bar that was a pound over 45, you'd be looking at 140#. If you had a whole set that averaged +2# per plate, 315 could turn into 327. 405 could end up at 421.

  5. #15
    Wooden Leg is offline Senior Member
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    Just a note here - personally I never know whether to trust scales that much. I went in a department store recently and tried out all the scales on show - I ended up with a variety of readings, varying by as much as 8lbs.

    I suppose you would hope at least that the post office has an accurate set.

  6. #16
    RJ79 is offline Senior Member
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    Get a Texas power bar for your next bar and be done with it. Looking for a deal will prob get you another sh*tty bar. Jmo

  7. #17
    bwwm is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wooden Leg View Post
    Just a note here - personally I never know whether to trust scales that much. I went in a department store recently and tried out all the scales on show - I ended up with a variety of readings, varying by as much as 8lbs.

    I suppose you would hope at least that the post office has an accurate set.
    In Grip forums, we have had that discussion quite a bit. A few folks who have worked there commented the scales are very accurate due to the quality of construction, and the fact that they are periodically re-calibrated. As it stands, for Grip comps, weighing on postal scales is a valid way to cert the weights.

    You are right that in general, you don't want to just use any random bathroom scale, etc.

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